From Ironic to Iconic: Retro Sneakers Are The Trainer Trend Of The Summer

Back in 2018, Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber (then Baldwin), and Tracey Ellis Ross all appeared in the year’s hottest sneaker: the Balenciaga Triple S. The raised-platform design, which first debuted in 2017, had signaled the rise of a new era — that of the “ugly sneaker,” chunky styles with an athletic look and a more-is-more aesthetic. Think: Louis Vuitton’s Archlight sneaker (worn by Jaden Smith) and Gucci’s Rhyton. But, as the pendulum of fashion trends swings between extremes, it’s reversed course. It’s been seven years, and Hadid is now in $150 Vivaia ballet sneakers, Bieber is in Onitsuka Tigers, and plenty of other trendsetters are co-signing the rise of something more minimalist… and familiar.

When it comes to 2025 trends, the scales have tipped as shoppers (whether famous or not) are in search of a slimmer silhouette, drawing inspiration from ‘70s running shoes, ‘90s racing boots, and ‘00s ballet flats. Starting in 2022, the rise of the soccer-adjacent Adidas Samba was a bellwether that things were moving in a more low-profile direction. Today, a whole new class of styles, from designer runners from Loewe and The Row to revived athletic styles like the Puma Speedcat, Adidas Taekwondo, and the Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 are driving the return of the retro-leaning sneaker trend. The irony of “ugly” shoes has run its course, and what has replaced it is a desire for something simple and comfortably nostalgic.

The Return of Y2K Aesthetics

For a generation of Gen Z shoppers, embracing thrift shopping and nostalgic trends has sparked interest in sneaker silhouettes that last dominated the culture in the early aughts. There are hundreds of listings for styles like the Puma Speedcat (which launched in 1999) on Grailed. As resale popularity spikes, the brand is simultaneously relaunching its OG silhouettes, riding the wave of nostalgia and introducing iconic Puma silhouettes to a new generation of shoppers.

“Consumers are leaning more than ever into the rising Y2K aesthetic, which is why slimmer silhouettes are having such a powerful moment with a demand that just continues to grow,” says Christina Mirabelli, Puma’s director of sportstyle marketing. “Consumers have a true passion for ‘what’s old is new again,’ which is how so many of these archival slim styles are coming to the forefront.”

The Move Towards Minimalism

In the last two years, several minimalist designer styles have dominated the conversation: Most notably, Miu Miu X New Balance’s 530 SL, Louis Vuitton’s Sneakerina, Dries Van Noten’s sneaker, and Loewe’s Ballet Runner 2.0 (which followed the success of the first iteration released in 2019). The rise of these luxury label offerings — defined by streamlined silhouettes and a slim fit through the foot — has mirrored the rise of quiet luxury across the board. Despite price tags that range from just under $550 to over $1,000, Miu Miu and Dries Van Noten sneakers both made the Lyst Index’s hottest products last year alongside more affordable counterparts like the Speedcat and the Adidas SL72.

While these sneakers often come with a color palette that fits their minimalist silhouette, a slew of playful colors, patterns, and materialities are popping up as well. Dries Van Noten’s sneakers — which are almost entirely sold out in both the New York and L.A. stores — in addition to black, white, and tan colorways, are available in a bold green suede, red snakeskin leather, and a metallic pink leather. You can expect to see this juxtaposition evolve according to Ashley Ahwah, VP Adidas Originals North America: “Metallics, ponyhair, patent, and bold colors are dominating,” she explains. For 2025, it’s about “understated silhouettes with the juxtaposition of bold colors and materials.”

The Power of Sportfluence

Whether it’s via professional athletes, dancers, or race car drivers, the influence of sports on fashion is an enduring trend. Though a far cry from the satin pointe shoes worn by professional dancers, a sneaker-ballet flat hybrid has popped up as one of this year’s biggest sneaker trends. In terms of styles, Miu Miu’s Gymnasium Ballerinas, along with collaborations between Solomon and Sandy Liang and Bad Bunny and Adidas, have come to embody the look that can be tied back to nostalgia for the ‘90s and early ‘00s when styles like the Nike Air Rift first hit their stride. Often designed with a slipper silhouette and ribbon laces or straps that criss-cross the top of the foot, they couldn’t be more different from the “dad sneakers” that dominated the trend cycle for so long. The Lyst Q1 Index Report indicates that the Puma Speedcat ballet is the third buzziest product so far of 2025, with searches for ballet sneakers in general up 1300% year over year.

It’s also worth noting the rising cultural influence of other sport-inspired styles. Adidas credits the comeback of the Samba, a soccer sneaker, with helping launch a revival in other sports-adjacent trainers. “The success of Samba and soccer… has opened the appetite from our consumer to seek iterations and looks that are more low-profile,” says Ahwah.

See: the Taekwondo, which the brand relaunched last year after it first debuted in the early 2000s for sparring on the mat. As well as: Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66, today worn by stars like Bieber and Kaia Gerber, but originally a silhouette for athletes to wear during the 1966 Olympics. Puma’s Speedcat, which was first designed in 1999 as a Formula One racing shoe, has returned with a vengeance as fandom for the sport has reached astronomical heights — securing its spot as one of the hottest products on multiple Lyst reports over the last year. Most recently, this design was spotted on Ferrari drivers Lewis Hamilton and Charles Leclerc.

While technological advances mean that these sport-inspired styles may no longer be used by professional sportspeople, their snug fit and simple profile make them ideal for off-duty outfits on days that we’re craving more than just old-school aesthetics, but also the familiarity and comfort that comes from nostalgia.

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